Jamaica, land of wood and water. A Caribbean paradise endowed with white sand beaches, and idyllic waterfalls. Come to our island, and rock slowly to reggae rhythms while strolling through the streets of our quaint resort communities. Once you go, you know.
This is probably the Jamaica you have heard of. It is a Jamaica I do not know. When I am in Jamaica, the sun oppressively bears down against my neck. The forested hills above my town have never intrigued me, and I don't intend to trek to the highest peak anytime soon. The beaches I walk by are ordinary; I can't remember the last time my half naked body was cleansed by the Caribbean Sea. Music defines my people, but it drones on in the background while I work to eke out a bare existence. Dreadlocks look cool, but here they are a way of life, a religion. Marijuana is cheap, but we do not rejoice for this; getting high is our only means of escape.
Walk through my community on any given day and you will find scores of young men and women sitting in the town square, chatting, laughing, bitching. You see 'community', we see lack of opportunity. We're here not because we want to be, but because there is nothing better to do. Our anemic economy edges along. Our career politicians seem flustered as they try to solve decade old Jamaican problems. Our society is morally depraved; it currently ranks number three on the podium of highest murder rate per capita (in the world). Sexual assault is an all too common reality that few people report. Criminals plunder and kill almost with impunity because of a failed justice system, and gang warfare often shuts down entire areas, which prevents people from getting to schools or hospitals.
This is probably not the Jamaica you have heard of. If you belong to a sexual minority, you can never live openly. Mob attacks are a common reality for people perceived as being LGBT. People are hostile to difference, because in a country of just under three million people living on an island, your reality becomes absolute. Non-conformists are easily identified, and urgently reformed. Children pray four times a day in schools, and there is no room to question religions dogma, because your teachers too are probably staunch Christians. You stop thinking, because all the answers are given to you by your superiors. Everything is black or white.
Everyone's face lights up when I introduce myself as being from Jamaica. "That's so amazing", they offer in excitement. "I'll switch places with you any day," I always think to myself. I sometimes jar their sense of reality when I say I actually dislike being from Jamaica. And that I don't have fun when I'm there, because having fun requires money that I don't have. And that I'm in America because I was running away from my island. And when they ask if I will return I bluntly say no, and they look at me as though I should somehow feel obligated to return to a country that gave me so much heartache.
For other developing countries, especially those in Sub-Saharan Africa, the media misses no opportunity to highlight the negatives that the world has used to define these countries. Jamaica has the opposite problem. The world focuses so much on our stellar athletes, our music and tourism offerings that the things that Jamaicans find unbearable never see the light of day. The idealized, romanticized view of Jamaica that people have come to know is the view people expect that I will embody. An Italian guy even suggested once that I couldn't possibly be Jamaican, because I do not speak like Jamaicans are supposed to (i.e. mixing Jamaican Creole with English).
How does a country with so many issues manage to construct an identity internationally that many envy? What is it about the Jamaican cultural product that is so appealing internationally? The video below is a music video by Bob Marley's son Damion Marley, whose song Welcome to Jamrock was a big hit in the US. But this video garnered some enemies as well because it depicted scenes that were counter to the images carefully constructed by the tourism ministry. The video clearly presents a damning counter narrative, though it is one that Jamaicans can better relate to. We complain that the media objectifies the experience of African people and construct a limited view of Africa that has now been popularized. Who though should we blame for constructing a false identity of Jamaica, the Jamaican government, which has a vested interest in projecting the best image possible, or gullible tourists who refuse to look beyond the high walls of their resort properties to see the Jamaica that most Jamaicans see?
On a slightly different note, am I Jamaican because my passport says I am? Growing up, I defined myself as everything Jamaicans were not. But as soon as I left the island and entered different societies where people were all bonded by their nationalities, I needed to use the label to help define myself in that new world. When I say I'm Jamaican it means nothing else to me except- that is where I was born. Most of my best friends hail from different countries, like different foods, and had vastly different experiences growing up. We get along amazingly well. Yet still people continue to use constructed national identities to make assumptions about how people (can) interact. We create walls that first need to be hammered away before we can see people for who they are as individuals (who admittedly are not independent of the cultural context of the place where they grew up). The same thing happens when we identify strongly with racial/ethnic differences. Me being "Jamaican" tells you very little about me. Don't assume. Ask.